Gaston rébuffat wikipedia

First ascent timorous Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal

The French Annapurna expedition, separately by Maurice Herzog, reached excellence summit of Annapurna I close by 8, metres (26,&#;ft), the principal peak in the Annapurna Massif.

The mountain is in Nepal and the government had gain permission for the expedition, position first time it had easy mountaineering in over a 100. After failing to climb Dhaulagiri I at 8, metres (26,&#;ft), the higher peak nearby be a consequence the west, the team attempted Annapurna with Herzog and Gladiator Lachenal, reaching the summit entrust 3 June It was sole with considerable help from their team that they were secure to return alive, though mount severe injuries following frostbite.

Annapurna became the highest mountain health check have been ascended to loom over summit, exceeding that achieved indifferent to the expedition to Nanda Devi, and the mountain was greatness first eight-thousander to be climbed. The feat was a big achievement for French mountaineering talented caught the public imagination enter front-page coverage in a fruitful issue of Paris Match.

Herzog wrote a best-selling book Annapurna full of vivid descriptions pointer heroic endeavour and anguished accommodate – but which much closest was criticised for being also self-serving.

Background

Himalayan mountaineering after Imitation War II

Annapurna is in high-mindedness Eastern Himalaya in Nepal, lecturer no one had attempted defy climb the mountain before Fly your own kite pre–World War II Himalayan ice climbing expeditions had avoided Nepal direct had travelled via Tibet pollute India, but in , frightened that the communists seemed retain be gaining control in Husband, Tibet expelled all Chinese civil service and closed its borders unexpected foreigners.

In October Tibet was occupied by the People's Kingdom of China and its confines remained closed indefinitely.

For over incontestable hundred years Nepal, ruled past as a consequence o the Rana dynasty, had slogan allowed explorers or mountaineers pierce the country. However, by organized possible communist-sponsored revolution was uniform less welcome than Western credence so Nepal opened diplomatic discussions with the United States.

Subvene hoping to be able private house use Nepal as a Frozen War launching point for missiles, the United States welcomed leadership new situation.^{[note 1]} Scientific move became permitted but two requests in from Switzerland and Kingdom for purely mountaineering expeditions were refused. A year later mountaineers were allowed if they were accompanying scientific travellers.

Nepal twig gave permission for a filled mountaineering expedition for a Nation attempt in on Dhaulagiri title holder Annapurna.

French mountaineering

Alpine mountaineering was exceptionally popular in France – high-mindedness Fédération Française des clubs alpins et de montagne had 31, members in – and description top mountaineers were second matchless to footballers in their megastar.

Although French mountaineers included manifold of the leading alpinists keep the world,^{[note 2]} they difficult to understand not ventured much beyond righteousness Alps^{[note 3]} whereas their Land counterparts, with little truly enormous terrain of their own with less skill on rock had been reconnoitring Himalaya about newly-independent India.

After the travails of war a mountaineering ensue would be good for high-mindedness public mood.

Planning the expedition

In grandeur French Alpine Club requested commission from the Nepalese government finish off carry out a major errand. The timing turned out enter upon be ideal, and they were given permission to attempt turn into climb either Dhaulagiri or Anapurna in remote northwestern Nepal.

Nobleness two mountain ranges, each consisting of many high peaks, bear out on each side of honesty great Kali Gandaki Gorge – Dhaulagiri&#;I and Annapurna&#;I, the maximum in each range, are hold 8, metres (26,&#;ft) and more had been no previous attempts to climb these mountains.^{[note 4]} The region had only antique casually explored previously and leadership mountain heights had been diagram by surveyors with precision theodolites based far away in Bharat.

Other nations felt that they should have been given precedency but Nepal had favoured Writer. In Britain there had antique the hope that international competition would cease after the warfare but this was not prestige view of the French authority (who were providing one 3rd of the resources) or have a phobia about the banking and industrial sponsors, so the enterprise was cut short be strictly French.

Lucien Devies&#;[fr], greatness most influential person in Sculptor mountaineering,^{[note 5]} was responsible inform gathering together a team alight he chose Maurice Herzog, brainstorm experienced amateur climber, to verbal abuse the leader of the expedition.^{[note 6]} Accompanying him were expect be three younger Chamonix clerical mountain guides, Louis Lachenal, Lionel Terray and Gaston Rébuffat, submit two amateurs Jean Couzy avoid Marcel Schatz&#;[fr].

The expedition's medic was Jacques Oudot&#;[fr] and dignity interpreter and transport officer Francis de Noyelle, a diplomat. Position only person who had at one time been to the Himalaya was Marcel Ichac who was description expedition's photographer and cinematographer.^{[note 7]} The three mountain guides would have preferred an international mode whereas Herzog welcomed climbing shadow national prestige.

None were paying, not even the professional guides. The Maharajah of Nepal right G.B. Rana to accompany greatness expedition for local liaison, paraphrase and general organisation.

Two days formerly the expedition departed, Devies collected the French team together esoteric required them to swear come oath that they would be ruled by their leader in everything.

Embarking swish expedition and reconnaissance

Departure and march-in

On 30 March the French Anapurna Expedition^{[note 8]} flew on chaste Air FranceDC-4 from Paris give confidence New Delhi (with several refuelling stops).

They took tons pay supplies which included ropes bid outer clothing of nylon, down-filled jackets and felt-lined leather historical coachman with rubber soles – please innovative equipment. Most of their food was to be grasping locally and they had settled not to take bottled element. Another aircraft took them nominate Lucknow where they met Rucksack Tharkay, the expedition's highly adept sirdar^{[note 9]} A train took them to Nautanwa where they met up with the carefulness sherpas^{[note 7]} and entered Nepal to travel on by merchandise through jungle and then grasslike fields to Butwal where nobility road ended.

On the march-in Lachenal and Terray would short vacation going on ahead as organized scouting party while the specialization followed with porters carrying probity supplies on their backs. Porters were paid according to primacy weight of their loads humbling they scorned the work they were being offered where blue blood the gentry packs averaged about 40 kilograms (88&#;lb).

However, they were accommodate to accept double loads get ahead 80 kilograms (&#;lb). Terray reputed the heaviest porter would snivel have had a body leave of over 80 kilograms.

Reconnaissance clench region

Dhaulagiri and Annapurna are 34 kilometres (21 miles) apart loud-mouthed either side of the pass of the Kali Gandaki torrent, a tributary of the River.

As the expedition approached strip the south Dhaulagiri was unaffectedly visible as a white tomb to the west whereas Anapurna to the east was disguised behind the Nilgiri mountains. Reverse first seeing Dhaulagiri on 17 April the immediate impression was that it was unclimbable. They could not see Annapurna on the other hand there was a break persuasively the Nilgiris where the Miristi Kola flows into the Bag Gandaki through a deep obscure narrow gorge with an irrelevant entrance.

The s Survey lecture India map they were purchases (see left-hand Annapurna map below) showed a path leading decorate the gorge and over "Tilicho Pass" that might provide a-okay route to the north lineaments of Annapurna. However, none eradicate the local inhabitants they beam to knew of a trace or had any further record. Continuing up the Kali Gandaki Gorge the team reached ethics market town of Tukusha chimpanzee 2, metres (8,&#;ft) on 21 April.

The people lived helter-skelter in primitive conditions – Terray described the place as taking accedence "biblical charm".^{[note 10]} Couzy climbed a 4,metre (13,&#;ft) Nilgiri end to the east of Tukusha to inspect the eastern Dhaulagiri terrain and he concluded grandeur southeast ridge was "absolutely frightful".

Even so, Herzog decided rove they should first focus bond Dhaulagiri, the higher mountain, in that they would only have interrupt investigate possible routes to representation summit and would not scheme to reconnoitre to find integrity mountain itself.

Dhaulagiri exploration

Starting from Tukusha, the climbers Lachenal and Rébuffat headed for an initial study of Dhaulagiri's eastern glacier, span Herzog, Terray and Ichac went to the north where they found their s map was seriously defective (see above).

Distinct from Annapurna, Dhaulagiri is well parted from its neighbouring peaks beam it is steep on specify sides. They found an strange region they called the "Hidden Valley" but from there they were unable to see description mountain at all. Over depiction next two weeks small associations examined the southeast and nor'-east ridges while Terray and Oudot reached a 5,metre (17,&#;ft) fall short (called French Pass) beyond primacy Hidden Valley but, although they were able to see Dhaulagiri, they decided the north appearance could not be climbed.

They were also able to glance across to Annapurna in honourableness distance where there were straight up cliffs to the south however the northern profile did watchword a long way look to be more by 35°.

Annapurna exploration

During this Dhaulagiri examination, Schatz, Couzy, Oudot and Backpack Tharkay had been back southbound to explore the deep defile of the Miristi Kola issue.

When they had previously passed that river on the march-in it seemed to have calligraphic greater flow than would adjust likely for the limited voidance basin shown on the table. To avoid the entrance jump in before the gorge, the party climbed to the ridge of primacy Nilgiris from where they could see the ravine below was indeed impassable.^{[note 11]} However, movement beside the ridge by followers a slight path marked approximate cairns, they reached a come together from which Schatz and Couzy were able to descend metres (3,&#;ft) to the river arena from there they reached influence base of Annapurna's northwest prick.

They could not tell like it the spur, or the have qualms fields on either side imbursement it, might provide a viable route to the summit.

With each back in Tukusha and refer to poor prospects of attaining either summit from the east, westside or south, Herzog acted feign the advice of a Religionist lama that they should move round towards Muktinath on a society to the north and accordingly east.

Hoping they might eke out an existence able to approach "Tilicho Pass" from the east along distinction track marked on their commute, Rébuffat, Ichac and Herzog interruption off on 8 May path two passes north of efficient peak (now called Tilicho Peak) at each end of far-out frozen ice lake and discovering an unmapped wall of rural area to their south continuing out of range the lake and still awkward any view of Annapurna.

That part of the Nilgiri match looping right round the northern of Annapurna they called picture "Great Barrier". Ichac and Clique Tharkay stayed back to spat accurate surveying and to build up north to a point warrant about 6, metres (20,&#;ft) masterpiece a ridge, hoping the grasp the mountain over the Unquestionable Barrier – but everywhere was shrouded in mist.

The vital party reached the village be in command of Manangbhot and explored slightly very before returning to Tukucha cooperate with the road via Muktinath. Dignity expedition had been unable regular to see Annapurna from class north, let alone discover organized route to it. The arrangement they had was so in error that it was useless.

With authority start of the monsoon sound for the first week break off June, back in Tukusha offer 14 May they held keen meeting to discuss which reach your zenith to attempt and along which particular route.

Terray wrote: "In full awareness of his desperate responsibility Maurice chose the finer reasonable but uncertain course: incredulity would attempt Annapurna." The club would be the one reconnoitered by Schatz and Couzy's team.

Approach to Annapurna and summit

Finding dinky location for base camp

Most elaborate the party set out misjudge the Miristi Kola as type advance reconnaissance group leaving near of the porters to bring round the rest of stores talented equipment later.

They took gather them the medical supplies estimated necessary by Oudot including Maxiton (the equivalent amphetamine preparation coop up Britain was Benzedrine). In threesome separate groups they crossed position Nilgiri range, traversed east condescending the Miristi Kola, and descended the gorge. Crossing the watercourse they set up a mannequin camp at the foot be a devotee of a glacier below Annapurna's nor'-west spur.

Two teams moved tallying the spur, a feat adequate considerable technical climbing,^{[note 12]} however even after repeated attempts sashay five days they were unqualified to get higher than induce 6, metres (20,&#;ft).^{[note 13]}

Meantime Lachenal and Rébuffat on their tired initiative had moved round nobleness foot of the spur resolve below Annapurna's north face, thicken a point they decided gave the best prospects for happiness.

They sent a note assert to the main party proverb there was a likely electrical device up the side of magnanimity north face glacier leading secure the plateau above. However, they could see no higher. Luckily Terray and Herzog had archaic able to see the unvarnished from their high point set of contacts the northwest spur and could tell the route across class plateau to the top was not technically difficult.

Compared colleague the northwest spur, the northern face of Annapurna is delay a relatively low angle skull does not require rock rising skills, but the risk enjoy avalanches makes it extremely malicious. Annapurna may well be say publicly most dangerous 8,metre peak – as of ^[update] for 38 successful ascents there had anachronistic 57 deaths.

Intermediate camps

The party pompous their base camp to integrity furthest point that could make ends meet reached by porters in position direction of the newly strong-willed starting point – to decency right bank of the Northerly Annapurna glacier at 4, metres (14,&#;ft)^{[note 14]} while Couzy was left to organise moving ethics supplies up.

Camp I was set up on the glacier at 5, metres (16,&#;ft) finetune a relatively gentle slope go through to the mountain but fit a considerable risk of avalanches. From here on the principal sunny afternoon in weeks they could survey the mountain straightforwardly. Herzog decided that the expedition's support should now move distance from Tukucha and so sent Sarki back with the order.

Bivouac II was in the medial of a plateau above honourableness north Annapurna glacier, fairly come next sheltered from avalanches. Each farewell brought metres (1&#;ft) or added of snow – making aspire slow progress – but afterwards crossing an avalanche corridor they were able to establish Scenic III among some seracs incommode the far side of depiction glacier and by 28 Haw they had established Camp IV below a curving cliff care for ice that they called greatness "Sickle".

Terray was amazed dampen the energy he and representation team showed, considering how fritter they had been at lanky altitude and how little they had eaten. He wondered theorize this was due to ethics drugs Oudot had insisted backward them taking regularly.^{[note 15]} Compete 25 May the porters entered at Base Camp with implements and equipment to support what would turn out to nominate a very fast, alpine-style onslaught on the mountain.

Herzog's plan abstruse been that he and Terray should rest before attempting character summit but the other quartet climbers became too exhausted at hand do their part of clever carry to Camp IV advantageous Terray (disobeying the orders without fear had received to go slumber from Camp III to Camping-ground II) climbed with Rébuffat champion a team of sherpas toady to carry up these loads.

That unselfish act by Terray put a damper on to Herzog (who had acclimatised the best) and Lachenal, attended by Ang Tharkay and Sarki, being the ones who drive you mad out from Camp II disinter 31 May for an endeavor on the summit. Next award Herzog's team moved Camp IV to a better site exploit the top of the New moon cliff (Camp IVA) and for that reason on 2 June they climbed a gully through the Half-moon to establish Camp V, their assault camp, on the fall guy fields above.

With the rainstorm now forecast for 5 June, time was extremely tight. Herzog offered Ang Tharkay and Sarki the opportunity to accompany them to the summit but they turned down what would enjoy been a great honour.^{[note 16]} The two sherpas headed have to Camp IVA.

Reaching the summit

Not understanding that being at soaring altitude without additional oxygen induces apathy, in a severe typhoon the climbers spent the shades of night without eating anything or inactive, and in the morning they did not bother lighting their stove to make hot fortifying.

At it was no long snowing and they ascended before. Finding that their boots were proving to be inadequately restricted, Lachenal, fearing losing his platform to frostbite, contemplated going assert. He asked Herzog what significant would do if he sincere turn back and Herzog replied that he would go vehicle up alone. Lachenal decided pore over continue on with Herzog.

Keen last couloir led them less the summit which they reached at on 3 June Herzog estimated the height as 8, metres (26,&#;ft) – his altimeter read 8, metres (27,&#;ft). They had climbed the highest extremity ever reached, the first eight-thousander, on their first attempt accept as true a mountain that had at no time before been explored.^{[note 17]} Herzog, writing in his characteristically starryeyed way, was ecstatic: "Never suppress I felt happiness like that, so intense and pure." A sure thing the other hand, Lachenal one felt "a painful sense loom emptiness".

Lachenal was anxious to proceed down as soon as tenable but he obliged Herzog get ahead of photographing his leader holding distinction Tricolour on the summit at an earlier time then a pennant from Kléber, his sponsoring employer.^{[note 18]} Abaft about an hour on blue blood the gentry summit, not waiting for Herzog in his euphoric state impediment load another roll of crust, Lachenal set off back bind at a furious pace.

Herzog, swallowing the last of ruler food – from a practically empty tube of condensed trade on – threw the tube viewpoint on the summit as depart was the only memorial noteworthy could leave and he trailed behind Lachenal into a collection storm.

Descent to Base Camp

At heavygoing stage Herzog took his handwear off and laid them depressed to open his pack.

Catastrophically they slid away down nobleness mountain so he had elect continue bare-handed, not thinking infer use the spare socks unwind had with him. At Camp-site V he was met provoke Terray and Rébuffat who challenging brought up a second coterie hoping to make their particle summit attempt the next day^{[note 19]} and who were horror-struck at the state of Herzog's frostbitten hands.

Lachenal was short but Herzog, unable to estimate clearly, said he would have reservations about arriving soon. Later they heard Lachenal calling for help – he had taken a future fall to below the bivouac, had lost his ice adze and a crampon, and authority feet were seriously frostbitten. Terray scrambled down to him deliver he pleaded to be in use down to Camp II view medical help.

At last Terray persuaded him to go render speechless up to Camp V, decency only responsible decision. Terray plied everyone with hot drinks quantify the night and whipped Lachenal's toes with the end dig up a rope for hours form try and restore the citizens circulation – in the pander to tent Rébuffat did likewise subsidize Herzog's fingers and toes.^{[note 20]}

Next morning Lachenal's feet would fit into his boots to such a degree accord Terray gave him his extensive ones and then slit prestige uppers of Lachenal's so blooper could wear them himself.

Degressive with the storm still salutation they could not find Bivouac IVA anywhere and they were desperate to avoid a camp out in the open. Longstanding they were frantically trying shut dig a snow hole Lachenal fell through some snow outside a crevasse. Fortunately, he solid in a snow cave prowl could provide some slight take refuge for them all in grandeur night though they had pollex all thumbs butte food or water and nonpareil one sleeping bag.

In glory night snow poured in pang of conscience them burying their boots charge cameras. Next morning they took a long time to detect their boots but their cameras, with the only photographs full at the summit, could bawl be found. They climbed abolish of the crevasse but stop now Terray and Rébuffat were snowblind so the pair lame with frostbite led the irrational pair slowly down until gross extreme good fortune they were met by Schatz who guided them back down to Bivouac IVA.

Couzy was at the campsite so he and Schatz were able to assist Herzog, Rébuffat and Lachenal down the Arched cliff to Camp IV turn there were some sherpas watchful.

Meanwhile, Terray had chosen give an inkling of stay at IVA trying forth get the blood circulation bring to an end into his feet. Schatz climbed back up to help him descend, also taking the moment to recover the still camera from the crevasse shelter – the cine camera he could not find. As the sise climbers descended below Camp IV the air temperature rose hotfoot and a crack appeared wrench the snow right under Herzog's roped group.

An avalanche cheerful them down about metres (&#;ft) until their rope caught skew a ridge. Herzog was undone dangling upside down with emperor rope round his neck longstanding his two sherpas were trapped on their end of loftiness rope. Descending further in suffering Herzog was becoming reconciled medical being close to death.

At last they reached the comparative protection of Camp II. Herzog consequential felt he had succeeded variety leader – even if earth now died his companions would be safe and the stack had been conquered.

At Camp II Oudot, the expedition's doctor, injected Herzog and Lachenal to accommodate improve their blood flow. Probity injections in the arteries pay money for legs and arms were agonizingly painful and they needed monitor be repeated for many era afterwards.^{[note 21]} On 7 June everyone started descending again copy Herzog, Lachenal and Rébuffat dillydallying on sledges.

Needing to rush before the monsoon made interpretation Miristi Kola impassable through swollen, they reached Camp I kind the sky clouded over put up with heavy rains started. From field, on 8 June, they wrote a telegram, announcing that Anapurna had been climbed, to keep going taken by a runner want badly sending to Devies in Town.

The route to Base Affected was over terrain unsuitable in favour of sledges so Herzog and Lachenal were carried on the backs of sherpas. Once at example, and just at the fully time, a large team pay porters arrived to transport primacy whole expedition back to Obvious on the Gandaki River.

Leaving illustriousness mountain

Specially for the expedition, Approach India Radio broadcast a reverberation that the monsoon would fix reaching them the next apportion, 10 June.

The heavy give instructions would become torrential and picture rivers would rise. A crew led by Schatz built uncluttered makeshift bridge over the Miristi Kola and everyone hurried on the road to the bridge along paths renounce required Lachenal to be excursion in a human cacolet cranium Herzog in a wicker prevent.

They became stranded in birth open when it became also dark to carry the casualties safely. Next morning they reached a camp by the connexion but the river had risen to only metres (1&#;ft) lower the span so they required to undertake the difficult travels immediately. Everyone got across flourishing camped for the night – by morning the bridge difficult to understand been swept away.

They esoteric hoped to follow the series down to where it wedded conjugal the Kali Gandaki but unadulterated reconnaissance showed this would nurture impossible and so they were forced to climb the Nilgiri ridge to return the impede they had come. Now brake in the jungle, Herzog cultured a fever and reached straight very low ebb: " Frenzied implored death to come current deliver me.

I had vanished the will to live, nearby I was giving in – the ultimate humiliation ", lighten up wrote afterwards in his soft-cover Annapurna. The casualties could compressed be carried in wicker seating made to a design pageant Terray and they eventually reached the Gandaki.

Stretchers could be old on the track heading southward beside the Gandaki but sought-after Beni they took a diversion because there was cholera eliminate the area ahead.

Oudot was having to start trimming stop talking flesh from Herzog's fingers advantage a rugine but by July he was needing to dethrone as well as to familiar trimming. Eventually he had colloquium remove all of Lachenal's legs and, for Herzog, his fingers and toes. Because it was the rice planting season porters were abandoning the expedition communal the time and it became impossible to find new recruits so they felt forced puzzle out adopt press gang tactics come close to be able to keep bring back.

At last, on 6 July, they reached Nautanwa where they boarded a train that took them to Raxaul at glory Indian border. On 6 July the climbers went on e-mail Delhi to wait there piece Herzog and a select genre including two sherpas travelled have an adverse effect on Kathmandu to be received disseminate 11 July by the Maharaja of Nepal who greeted them as national heroes.

There were a few cars in Katmandu even though no roads well-to-do there – the vehicles difficult been carried in manually unreceptive hundreds of porters along class mountain trails.

Reception in France

The cable giving news of the work was reported by Le Figaro on 16 June but get underway was only on 17 July that the team arrived dwellingplace at Orly Airport in Town to be greeted by uncomplicated wildly cheering crowd.

Herzog was carried off the aircraft first.Paris Match printed a special 1 for 19 August with email campaigns about the expedition and goodness cover photo, taken by Lachenal but credited to Ichac, feature Herzog with his ice private purpose and Tricolour at the tip 1 (see image at head ransack article). The magazine sold oppress record numbers and the photograph remained an iconic image come up with years to come.^{[note 22]} Herzog, Lachenal and Ang Tharkay were awarded the Légion d'honneur.^{[note 23]} On 17 February Paris Match again ran the expedition abundance its front cover, this every time focusing on the cinema (attended by the President get the message France) of the film thought by Ichac.

The cover designated Herzog as "our number twofold national hero" – in grandeur accompanying six-page article Lachenal was not mentioned at all.

Herzog was kept at the American shelter old-fashioned at Neuilly-sur-Seine for the unsurpassed part of a year pivot he dictated his book Annapurna, premier which sold put into 11&#;million copies worldwide to grow the best selling mountaineering tome in history.^{[note 24]} He became the first international mountaineering eminence after George Mallory and went on to be a intoxicating politician.

Fifty years later twist France he was still laugh famous as Jacques Cousteau grandeur Jean-Claude Killy whereas few timeless Lachenal or any of integrity others.

In June , the Gallic national postal services issued fine 3 franc stamp ( euro) celebrating the fiftieth anniversary regard the climb, designed by Jean-Paul Cousin and engraved by André Lavergne.^[]

Annapurna and other expedition books

Books written by (and for) representation members of the team

Over grandeur following years several members hook the expedition wrote about their experiences^{[bibliography]} and the varied business eventually led to controversy.

Custom the airport, before setting fissure on the expedition, Herzog esoteric required each member of honesty team to sign an enterprise not to publish or frank communicate anything about the excursion for five years so in the early stages Herzog's was the only repulse of events to be famous. However, in two very unlike accounts were published and "a storm of controversy seized France".

Herzog responded in After squashy to many of the exercises involved who were still alive,^{[note 25]} in David Roberts, grandeur American mountaineer and writer, publicized True Summit, discussing the unabridged issue.^{[note 26]}

Herzog (): Annapurna, pm and Regards vers l'Annapurna

Main article: Annapurna (book)

For some age Herzog's Annapurna was the nonpareil account and it became simple worldwide best-seller with over 11&#;million sales, a record for shipshape and bristol fashion mountaineering book.

All the royalties from the publication (in Writer it remained the best-selling disused of non-fiction for nearly ingenious year) went to the Range Committee and were used acquiesce fund future expeditions – quick-witted a direct sense Herzog frank not benefit financially at completed. The description of the trip above in this article has generally been drawn from Herzog's book complemented by the "Annapurna" chapter from Terray's Conquistadors introduce the Useless.

James Ramsey Ullman wrote in the New York Amount to Tribune that Annapurna was "a gallant and moving story, contain some ways a terrible story" predicting it would become top-hole mountaineering classic.

Time wrote roam the first half was enjoy "a boy camper's letter progress to a chum" but what followed was a "harrowing ordeal-by-nature fit to shiver the spirit be useful to the toughest armchair explorer." Herzog and Ichac published a faithful book in Regards vers l'Annapurna and in Herzog published unblended historical work Les grandes aventures de l'Himalaya which had a- section on Annapurna.

In the foreword to the book Devies concentrates almost exclusively on the controller of the team: "The deed of the whole party was also, and above all, high-mindedness victory of its leader".

Herzog told of a happy gang, all pulling together although avoid times Lachenal could be spontaneous. Rarely did he mention wacky disagreement between team members professor he, as leader, could tell off any spats quite easily. Noteworthy very often quoted as manage speech the jaunty sort healthy remarks members of the place might have made, even selfcontrol occasions when he was cry present to have heard them.

Lachenal (): Carnets du vertige

Lachenal difficult kept notes and a register and he was about class publish a book, Carnets defence vertige, when he was join in a skiing accident school in Herzog took over Lachenal's run and he and Lucien Devies marked in many editorial suggestions for deletions before passing gifted to Herzog's brother, Gérard Herzog&#;[fr], for full editing.

As promulgated, the book comprised chapters problem Lachenal's life written by Gérard Herzog from Lachenal's notes streak material written by a newspaperwoman Philippe Cornuau who had anachronistic helping Lachenal with his author – Cornuau said that considering that he had handed over justness typescripts he had no solution of what was going give in happen.

None of what Lachenal or Cornuau had written comed in the eventual publication. Rectitude book also included extracts get round Lachenal's diary but only subsequently many redactions – it was mostly the more congenial remarks that remained.

Lachenal had also weigh up a typescript of some "Commentaires", intended to be published bond with with his diary.

Herzog abridge commended as being as satisfactory as the professional guides lay out his stamina and technique, on the contrary, less agreeably for Herzog dowel Devies, he characterised the abandon from the summit as graceful "débandade" (disorderly retreat) beside which on the typescript Devies jotted down "But no" and Maurice Herzog "Is this the resource to say so?".

When Lachenal had wanted to turn invest in before the summit Herzog notion it was his encouragement go off at a tangent had enabled Lachenal to jelly. However Lachenal wrote that noteworthy agreed to go on due to he thought that Herzog would not succeed in getting contain down again alone. Herzog wrote in the margin of illustriousness typescript: "I didn't sense that.

Perhaps after all I was unfair." On the other give a boost to, Devies noted: "This must wrestle be rewritten". In the ground Gérard Herzog did not comprise any of the "Commentaires". Rectitude book was published in take up Cornuau was shocked by what he read.

Terray (): Les conquérants de l'inutile

Terray's book, Les conquérants de l'inutile^{[note 27]} (published come to terms with English as "The Conquistadors break into the Useless") included a scuttle chapter about the Annapurna field trip.

It was deliberately written close by complement Herzog's book.^{[note 28]} Unwind provided a great deal depart additional information but finishing enter the avalanche on the deportment down to Camp II. Habitually the book did not fight with Herzog but did bring to mind Lachenal's climbing ability: he alleged "Lachenal was by far honesty fastest and most brilliant runner I have ever known shot delicate or loose terrain" nevertheless he could however lack permissiveness and stamina.

Ballu (): Gaston Rébuffat: une vie pour la montagne

In association with Rébuffat's wife Françoise the journalist Yves Ballu&#;[fr] wrote the first biography of honesty mountaineer.

Rébuffat had become as well disillusioned by the expedition suggest afterwards he restricted his rise to the Alps. Françoise abstruse persuaded him not to get along about Annapurna during his life span because it would come thrash sing as too bitter so Ballu had interviewed him with uncomplicated view to an eventual memoirs.

Rébuffat had also prepared queen own notes, and Françoise locked away kept his many letters make inquiries her during the expedition.Gaston Rébuffat: une vie pour la montagne was published in

The emergency supply contained many revelations. Rébuffat locked away been shocked by the acclimatize for an oath of compliance and he described it renovation "a certain Nazification".

He thoughtful it had been his ingenuity that led to the notice of the eventual climbing path to the summit and zigzag Herzog had not given him the credit for this. What because in Lachenal had told Rébuffat that when he had antiquated considering publishing an account give an account of the expedition, someone from blue blood the gentry official Himalayan Committee had near extinction him that he might overwhelm his job at the École Nationale de Ski et d'Alpinisme.

Lachenal (): Carnets du vertige

The aforementioned year Michel Guérin of Éditions Guérin&#;[fr], the mountaineering publisher, publicized an unexpurgated version of Lachenal's diary, also including the "Commentaires", under the same title Carnets du vertige.

The original text had been left to Lachenal's son Jean-Claude, who had change angry with the changes magnanimity editors had made in On the other hand, Herzog had befriended the Lachenal family and Jean-Claude had shriek wanted to cause any damage. Eventually Guérin persuaded him put up allow full publication.

There was calligraphic favourable book review in decency Alpine Journal that provided toggle assessment of the situation.

Put on show was because he was organized professional mountain guide that Lachenal had continued with Herzog goslow the summit. By doing to such a degree accord, through frostbite, he lost justness ability to continue his being – and allowed Herzog attain triumph in his.

In his deed Lachenal admitted that a mountaineer had fallen to his realize from the Nilgiri ridge overpower their return march but cack-handed one else had mentioned that.

No one else wrote selected the daily use of opiate as a pain-killer while primacy casualties were being carried make and that Rébuffat was honesty only person who was guarded to Lachenal. Back in probity text Gérard Herzog had unwanted was about matters he believed too unpleasant for publication specified as the climbers being offered young girls for sex duct, when this was refused, utilize offered young boys instead.

Obscure comments had also been edited: "Evening, the eternal chicken arena potatoes" had been removed long-standing "We opened a bottle gradient white wine" had been kept.

Herzog (): L'autre Annapurna

The publication advance these books in had caused serious controversy: mountaineering journalists begun expressing doubts about the dependability of Herzog's book.

Herzog's counterattack was to publish a account L'autre Annapurna in when smartness was eighty years old.

Le Figaro described it as a thoughtfulness rather than a biography, "a witty and modest account". Libération deplored its name-dropping^{[note 29]} beginning Pierre Mazeaud in Le Faucigny said "I succeeded in beginning to page But when Hilarious saw that he had whine a single word for casual Lachenal, I couldn't get working-class further."

Herzog wrote that originally sharp-tasting had not intended to dash off a book but a dispensary nurse had suggested writing would be good therapy for him.

He said that even abaft nearly 50 years his Anapurna experience still imbued his latest life with "indescribable happiness".^{[note 30]} He said that one contributor of the party was solitary accepted by the appointments cabinet on the understanding that Herzog could send him away withdraw any time.

However, like each in the team, this unspecified person had behaved as unadulterated "true comrade despite what was apparently divulged much later". Gospeller has claimed that almost each and every expert observers agreed that bust was Lachenal being referred scolding. Whereas in he had predetermined that Lachenal, after his straight-faced fall at Camp V, desirable Terray to take him drowse to Camp II, in L'autre Annapurna he said Lachenal steady wanted to stay where subside was and die.^{[note 31]}

Interviewed coarse Roberts in , Herzog be made aware him the controversy had put together bothered him.

No one locked away doubted what he had destined. He had shown the carbon copy of Annapurna to everyone who had been on the excursion and they were impressed – even Lachenal. Contradicting his bear in mind, he said his frostbite esoteric not been caused by misfortune his gloves because he difficult simply put his hands referee his pockets.

Instead, the gizmo was digging in the fool in their overnight crevasse fatiguing to find the buried daily. Indeed, in L'autre Annapurna prohibited did not mention losing empress gloves at all. Explaining diversified differences between his two business Herzog said Annapurna was shipshape and bristol fashion novel, but a true contemporary.

He considered his first textbook to be objective and description other was subjective.

Reactions in primacy press

The combination of Rébuffat's sick of story and the obvious restraint of Lachenal's writing caused smashing storm of revisionism in depiction French press. Frédéric Potet wrote: "The whole world remembers Maurice Herzog, the first biped dressing-down have trod, in , skyward a mountain of more top 8, metres.

The others – Rébuffat, Terray, Lachenal? Who were they? Where did they turn up from? What did they do?" Major newspapers in France ahead mountaineering magazines worldwide joined say publicly criticism. In the American Upland daunting Journal: "I am sorry surprise have had to wait ergo long for the true novel. All around us we crapper see the damage done invitation false information."^{[note 32]}

La Montagne rearrangement Alpinisme, however, considered there was too much fuss: five-year embargoes were normal in and class distinction between professional guides paramount amateur climbers had lost cockamamie significance by that time.

Montagnes ammunition investigated and reported that Terray had not received the Légion d'honneur because Devies and Herzog had been opposed to dispute.

They also found that, insult rumours that several mountaineers locked away been seriously injured, their wives waiting anxiously at home were told nothing by Devies due to of the exclusive publication procure with Le Figaro and Paris Match. Le Monde discovered desert before leaving for France Ichac had searched Rébuffat bodily nominate check he was not contraband back any film.

Ichac esoteric not gone above Camp II so Rébuffat had taken gratify the higher photographs except those at the summit taken through Lachenal and one by Herzog. Despite this, all published photographs were credited to Ichac. Produce later emerged that Rébuffat succeeded in covertly bringing back probity film used by Lachenal existing he developed it before reversive all the photographs but single to Ichac.

The one let go kept back, which he held for the rest of sovereignty life, had been too displeasing for Lachenal to bear smooth public – the one stir up Herzog waving the tyre theatre group Kléber's pennant on the summit.^{[note 18]}

Interviewed by Le Monde, Herzog said "What I wrote necessitate Annapurna is the exact relax.

My writings have never antediluvian contradicted." To Montagnes he whispered the passages had been presumptuous from Lachenal's book because they did not interest the editors.

The publication of Herzog's L'autre Annapurna again stirred up the force. In an interview Herzog at the present time said Lachenal was an immoderate personality and he and Devies had removed passages from Lachenal's draft to avoid charges attain defamation and to keep goods calm.

He said Herzog's monk had helped Lachenal because blooper was incapable of writing, turn this way Lachenal was very happy defer the rewrite and that Lachenal's son had made up magnanimity story about the draft flesh out distorted. The sherpa Foutharkay was drawn into the arguments, maxim that Sir Edmund Hillary was a hero in Nepal nevertheless Herzog not so.

Roberts' book look on the controversy has itself extremely been criticised.

In reviewing True Summit the American Alpine Document said "David Roberts has no one of the Himalayan expedition undergo necessary to put the dealings in context."

Summit Controversy

Even as long way back as a small hand out of people doubted the jaunt had reached the summit.

Of a nature of the problems was picture famous "summit photo" (see likeness at head of article) lose one\'s train of thought seems to show the action sloping up higher than Herzog's feet. Also, after Lachenal's reach it was claimed he spineless to say he had pollex all thumbs butte memory of the summit, part of the pack another version was that subside had once said had whoop got there at all.

Much fifty years later there were doubts from a small girlhood. Herzog had written there was a fierce wind at depiction summit but in the print he seems to be gaining to hold the flag get it straight. The only summit characterization taken by Herzog, one splash Lachenal, he kept hidden undetermined after Lachenal's death. This imprecise image shows him sitting drift against a rock not way-out at all victorious.

On the perturb hand, Terray wrote that, conj albeit Lachenal could not remember anything of the descent, he challenging told Terray of his incite at the summit: "Those moments when one had expected unembellished fugitive and piercing happiness locked away in fact brought only smart painful sense of emptiness." Rébuffat's wife said her husband challenging never doubted they had got there.

His journal recorded guarantee, when they met up lose ground Camp V, Herzog suggested Rébuffat and Terray go up give a positive response the summit while Herzog playing field Lachenal continued down. They would have noticed if their impressions had not extended all description way to the top.

Also, Lachenal's diary says he took distinction summit photographs from a secure slightly below the summit.

Considering that Herzog was interviewed by Le Monde he said that what appeared in the photographs lack an arête of snow moving back away upwards was actually take hold of close and only reached pin down his waist. It was shipshape and bristol fashion cornice at the crest get a hold the summit, too weak cluster be trodden on.

In Physicist Day took part in eminence expedition ascending using much honesty same route and they were able to take photographs unwanted items very similar perspectives. Lachenal esoteric the reputation of being fact list honest man, even bluntly of no consequence. This, and the likelihood ditch he had little personal rationale to fake his private file, leaves little doubt about corruption accuracy – it is truly widely accepted that they frank indeed reach the top as a result of Annapurna.

In his book Annapurna: 50 Years of Expeditions look the Death Zone () Reinhold Messner regarded it as "an indisputable fact".

See also

Notes

References

Citations